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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, tucked high among these culinary giants is a simple salonu located in a distant part of north London.

An Unexpected Accolade

This little Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. This honour has made the owners totally surprised.

“I am totally astonished,” remarks the family member, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their small place achieving such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has maintained much of its former charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the cuisine, and this establishment more than succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent quality.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can start at many times that figure.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I feel truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate outside its own doors. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this gastronomic honour.